Common lawn & garden issues

We hear a lot of the same questions and concerns so we've created this resource for you. Hope it helps!

Losing the battle against weeds?

First of all it is important to understand the weeds (such as clover, dandelions and crabgrass, etc...) are a symptom of the problem, not the actual problem. Weeds grow because of certain soil conditions.

Dandelions love highly compacted soils low in nutrient availability. That's why they have a very strong, deep tap root, this root is searching for water and mining nutrients that are not present in the initial layers of the soil. Also the color of the dandelion should tip off the homeowner that their soils are lacking calcium. Anytime you see a yellow flower on a weed, typically it means there is a calcium deficiency. (You can fix your compacted soil and calcium deficiency by using NatraTurf's HydroSave.)

Second to the dandelion, one of the most common weeds is clover. Did you know that prior to world war 2, clover was the #1 seed in a grass mixture? Clover is an amazing plant because it actually pulls nitrogen from the atmosphere to feed the plant. (So I ask you this, is clover really a weed or a natural fertilizer?!) To help rid the lawn of clover, add nitrogen to your soil. You can do this with NatraTurf's Free-N-Green (to debut spring 2012) or by adding blood meal, bone meal, compost or compost tea.

Another common weed found in lawns all across North America is crabgrass. This bunch type weed also loves highly compacted soils but is an indicator that there are very high levels of sodium in the soils. Whether it is from synthetic fertilizers or poor irrigation, crabgrass can be eliminated by lowering the sodium levels in your soil. You can do that by applying HydroSave which is a gypsum product. Gypsum has a unique characteristic to bind or tie up the excess sodium in the soil because the sulfur in gypsum will attach itself to the sodium and carry it to the subsoil away from any plant roots.

If Creeping Charlie is the cause of your headaches, check out these tips.

Lots of clay in your soil?

With the exception of coastal areas or the southwestern desert, most people who live in North America have to deal with clay in their soils. Clay has a tendency to become compacted, reduce water infiltration rates and lock up key nutrients in the soil.

There are many ways to combat these issues, the most popular is mechanically, through aeration but there is also a less invasive way to condition the soil and improve the environment so your turf and ornamentals can thrive. This method is to apply soil amendments such as gypsum or limestone. The main ingredient in each of these naturally occurring organic materials is calcium and it is the calcium that breaks up the soil profile; reducing compaction, increasing water infiltration rates and increasing soil nutrient availability to the plant. Adding soil amendments is a very safe and effective method to eliminating poor soil conditions caused by heavy clay. NatraTurf's HydroSave is great example of this. Made from extremely pure gypsum, it is an extremely effective organic option for improving clay soils.
 

Sandy or rocky soil?

If you are experiencing sandy or rocky soil you may be losing valuable nutrients that would otherwise be available to the plant through excess leaching. Because of the high water filtration rates in sandy and/or rocky soils, these areas can be flushed of excess nutrients and minerals, making it difficult for turf grass and ornamental plants to thrive. Generally these areas are also lacking organic matter, the stuff that makes healthy soil so dark and rich. Over time, given the proper methods, it is possible to begin increasing organic matter in these sandy, rocky areas.

Finding products rich with humates, such as NatraTurf's Enrich, (which will be available spring 2012), can increase the organic matter in the soil which will keep it from losing valuable minerals and nutrients, increase the water-holding capacity of the soil and begin to improve the soil's structure.
 

Patches of your lawn are yellow, brown or bare?

Most bare spots, or spots that aren't flourishing, are caused by compaction and crusting within the top few inches of the soil. Water and oxygen are not able to get to the root of the plant and they suffer. The best prevention for bare or brown areas is to create an environment for the roots to grow. Creating soil structure by using a soil amendment such as gypsum can reduce crusting and break up the compaction layers over time. Your best bet for eliminating the problem quickly would be to aerate the brown and bare areas, apply very high quality gypsum (get an excellent very pure source of gypsum in NatraTurf's HydroSave) or humate material (like NatraTurf's Enrich, which will be available spring 2012) along with organic compost as topdressing and seed to match the rest of your yard. Make sure you water the affected areas with long deep watering cycles and within a few weeks you should have beautiful green grass.

If the spots could be from dog urine or de-icer, you'll want to also sprinkle on some NatraTurf SpotGone! to bind the salt out of the soil before reseeding.

If the patches could be from grubs (dig down a bit to check), you might want to consider adding beneficial nematodes. Here's some more info for dealing with grubs.

Too much shade in your lawn or garden area?

Shade problems have more to do with what is growing above ground than in the ground. Grass and other vegetation depend on a few key items to grow and be healthy: proper soil structure, nutrition, water and sunlight. Eliminating one of these key items can be devastating to your lawn or garden. If your lawn or garden is shaded throughout most of the day, you might want to consider switching to plants that do well in in the shade like hostas that love cool, shady areas. For a grassy area, there are numerous blends of seeds that are designed exclusively for shade tolerance and will thrive and do great in that environment. To find the right variety for your region, ask your local garden center for advice.

Before you add new seed or new plants, make sure your soil pH is right for growing (if it's not, add some NatraSweet) and your soil is draining well and has the proper nutrients (you can add HydroSave if it's compacted).

Soil pH too high for your acid-loving plants?

When choosing your plant, check with your local nursery or county extension service for recommendations on the types that do best in your area. Nevertheless, don't hesitate to try a different species.

Blueberries, azaleas and hydrangeas planted in acidic (pH 4.5-5.0), well-drained, loamy soil, amended and mulched with compost in a sunny spot grow easily and well with little fuss. Regular, even watering keeps the plant healthy and vigorous.

If your soil pH is high, it'll need to be amended to reduce the pH. In this case, prepare beds for your blueberries in the fall. Test the soil and add amendments as needed. Clay soils can be amended with peat and sand to improve drainage. High pH soils may need extra sulphur to decrease pH -NatraTurf's SulpHur Plus will launch in spring 2012 and be great for this. Peat moss, pine bark, and pine needles can be used to organically reduce pH. In areas where the soil pH is naturally high, it's necessary to continuously amend the soil to maintain the high acidity needed. Once you've worked the beds, let them rest over the winter. Retest soil in the spring for pH and amend further if needed.

If you also have a grassy area or garden, you may need to raise the pH to it's ideal growing range (usually 6.5-7.0) and our NatraSweet can help with that.

The pests we fight differ a lot by regions but here's some tips and info we hope you find useful: 

Pests, big or small, in your space?

If you have a question not answered here, please email us.